The Maghreb
was exactly as Claire had been led to expect. She was picked up at the
airport by Hein, a solemn Dutch WWF official, who drove her to a concrete
bungalow in the desert. The three rooms contained one bed, one table
and one shower. A small portable fridge and three saucepans completed
the kitchen equipment, and Hein unloaded a box of crockery and cutlery
from the back of his Land Rover.
‘When you leave, pack it up and bring it with you – the
saucepans too. I’m surprised they are still here,’ he said.
She was given coffee, flour, rice and sugar, tinned beans and canisters
of tinned margarine.
‘No meat?’ She was testing the space, such a small place
to call home, and yet she knew when he’d gone she would find it
empty.
‘Don’t worry – they will be here soon to sell you
meat and cloth, cushions, silver jewellery, and drugs.’ He tipped
his head to one side. ‘Don’t buy drugs. They will be police
officers trying to trap you. If you need ...’
She waved a hand to cut him off.
‘Will you be okay on your own?’
She wondered what would happen if she said no. Would they take her back
to the airport and send her home? She couldn’t tell if Hein was
Project or not.
‘I’ll be fine. Just fine. Anyway, it’s only for three
days, isn’t it? Until somebody comes to check on me, I mean.’
He nodded again, looking around the bare concrete shell as though it
was something rare and strange. ‘Three days and Tiljad will visit.
We work with the Berbers here because they’ve got a better handle
on migratory species than Moroccan Arabs.’
‘And he calls by twice a week?’
‘Yes. He brings letters and food from town to everybody working
out here. Five organisations pay his wages: us, FAO, Save the Maghreb,
Planetary Tree and Lynx Trust. So he knows everything and everyone and
he’s pretty trustworthy.’
‘Only ‘pretty’ trustworthy?’
Hein gave her a long look. ‘There are problems. Not just political.
You have to understand – if you sleep with a native here, they
will lose all respect for you. It seems unfair to women. It is. But
that is how it works.’
She nodded. ‘So he’ll offer to keep me company at night
and if I say yes, he’ll exploit me – is that it?’
‘Yes,’ his relief was palpable, he relaxed, his face falling
into softer lines. ‘I never know what to say to women who come
here to do fieldwork. You know, I’ve been here nearly fifteen
years. Things change – here they have changed a lot. The Muslim
world is hard to deal with, but the battle here is complicated. Moroccan
people and Berbers are both supposed to be Muslim – but the Arabic
speakers have carried out Jihad against the Berbers in the past. This
is a chaotic time; all outsiders must step carefully, but especially
women.’
Claire began to put the food on the narrow shelves that were high on
the wall to evade ants and termites. She turned her back on Hein so
he wouldn’t be able to read her expression. This was a test –
a Project test. She was being assessed and it felt good to know that
she was about to be measured.
He continued, ‘There’s another woman out here. Maggie Grieve;
a veterinarian. She specialises in ungulates – she’ll be
over to see you soon enough. People drop in all the time, believe it
or not, even though you’ve been placed out here to try and get
data that isn’t influenced by human impact. But you know all this.’
She nodded, still with her back to him. She wanted to own this space,
make it her home, and she couldn’t do that until he left.
He hefted the bag he was holding. ‘In the shed behind the kitchen
there’s a generator that Tiljad takes care of. You can plug in
your computer, but there is no internet. Here is your radio, because
there is no telephone. I’ll show you how to use it. Tiljad will
bring you a cell phone if you ask; this thing is only for emergencies.
He slapped the radio casing. ‘It’s not so friendly.’
She wondered what that meant; desert raves, hash parties or perhaps
just people wanting to talk without half Morocco listening in. They
practised with the radiophone for ten minutes. He drove away and she
stood in the cement cell, feeling the heat reaching for her from the
desert. She was beginning her training at last.
Hein had been right about visitors. Tiljad arrived with a mobile phone
and a handful of prepaid phone cards as if he’d known she’d
want them. He showed her the workings of the generator and how to check
the level in the water tank. He spoke Arabic, Berber, French and English,
making her feel inadequate and parochial.
‘Where is your Jeep?’
‘My Jeep?’
‘Bird Land Jeep. Where is it?’
‘I don’t know. Nobody mentioned it to me.’ Apart from
her tickets and visa, and her folder on bird recognition, she’d
been told almost nothing; all Ansel had said was that she needed to
break her ties with England, distance herself from her old friends -
and that wasn’t any hardship.
Day after day she came back from her desert hide; an overturned canvas
pot that boiled her alive, to find some stranger sitting on her step,
drinking her beer. If they were European they brought their own beer
too – blood-warm bottles of froth that they stacked in her fridge
to replace the chilled ones they’d drunk. Arabs came empty-handed
but sent gifts later: goat meat, cheese, and for her, because she refused
alcohol, cans of soft drink scented with melon and tasting of sugar
and plastic. It was a strange peripatetic party that was carried on
by Jeep and Land Rover, bodies in motion across the desert, transmitting
gossip via bumpy journeys that made beer fizz and heads ache. She’d
thought that without a vehicle she would be stranded, a Crusoe in a
sea of sand, but at least every other night she was invited into some
Jeep to go and meet somebody who was doing something somewhere else.
Travel seemed to be its own purpose, as though you could catch nomadic
behaviour from the landscape.
In that first fortnight she watched the stars from a swaying seat as
the driver cursed ruts and rocks. Often they were heading for a film
crew, some or other epic being shot in the desert and requiring a night
scene. Ouarzazate was a popular location for thrillers and spy movies,
and Hein seemed to have a radar for the nights they were out, or maybe
he owned some piece of equipment that tracked their huge trailers and
cameras as they rolled slowly through the desert. Night shooting meant
catering and that meant roast meats, more beer, a crowd of Berber onlookers
who were so used to being recruited as extras they came with their own
camels, guns, and knives. Often the camels were decanted from lorries
– you didn’t ride a racing camel to a shoot and expect it
to perform well. She got used to standing in the cold, because the desert
chilled as soon as the sun left, clutching a greasy tinfoil package
of lamb and beans to her chest and eating with her fingers, watching
a villain or a hero bouncing around in some 4 x 4 while Berbers curvetted
around on camels and yelled threats, waving old rifles that they fired
into the air one-handed.
She had too her gun. She had thought transporting a weapon to Morocco
would be difficult, but it wasn’t. The gun had been offered for
sale through the Rifle Association and a copy of their newsletter, with
it highlighted, had been posted to her anonymously, along with eight
one hundred pound notes. She’d rung the owner straight away. Her
club had signed one set of forms, her local police sergeant another,
and she’d been shown how to lock her gun in a box, her ammunition
to be stored safely separate. The rifle was beautiful. A walnut-stocked
Browning Micra with A bolt action, scaled for ‘smaller hunters’
it said in the literature. She could have carried it every day of her
life without tiring, and it slid into her shoulder like a small child
needing a cuddle.
She met Maggie over a spitted lamb. The film crew were on a break, slicing
the roast; handing out polystyrene boxes of the rich meat topped with
sauce and a dollop of couscous, when a bellowing horde of camels whirled
into the film site. Wild ululations filled the air with strident terror
and the film camels began to kick and wheeze, pulling at their tethers.
The crew ran for cameras that had been left in position for the next
shot, hauling dollies back by hand and screaming insults at the arrivals
as dust filled the scene.
Hein was juggling a can of beer and three lamb boxes, dumped in his
arms by panicking camera operators. He squinted into the dust, blown
gold in the lights. ‘Maggie,’ he said.
Claire was prepared to dislike her even before she picked out the large
blondeness of her, like a heifer among greyhounds. The woman slid from
her camel and made for the fire, surrounded by the wiry Berbers.
‘Maggie Grieve,’ she held out her hand and Claire shook,
trying to set aside her immediate prejudice. The other woman’s
grip was strong, unnecessarily so. As Claire felt her knuckles grate
under the pressure she allowed her hand to become limp. She locked out
her shoulder, then elbow, then wrist, transferring power down her arm
until she snapped it through her hand, flexing the first knuckles apart
in stepping motion, spreading the width of her hand so that more of
Maggie’s palm was against hers. Then she transferred the force
into her grip, powering the compression until Maggie winced.
‘Claire Benson.’
Hein moved forward, trying to hand them both meat boxes, defusing the
situation.
‘You’ve upset them again, Maggie.’
She nodded, scooping meat into her mouth. When she spoke her voice was
ripe with Middle England, private school inflections overlaid with some
unidentifiable twang. ‘So what? They hire clapped-out camels and
treat them like shit. Shouldn’t be allowed to get away with it.
Now they’ve seen how well healthy animals can perform, they might
pay decent rates for a change.’
She turned, checking for something in the dark desert. Claire couldn’t
pick out what she was focused on. She swung back, ‘You’re
the bird woman, right?’
‘Only temporarily. I’m a geographer ...’
‘Yeah, right. The guy you took over from’s gone home to
try and fix his marriage. You single?’
Claire nodded.
‘Me too. Stupid to try and do this kind of work and keep a relationship
together. You ringing ‘em?’
‘Just tallying,’ Claire wondered if Maggie usually spoke
like this.
‘Good. Tell you what, come with me next Thursday, we’re
doing a roundup – need all the bodies we can get. You too,’
she waved her box at Hein.
‘I don’t think so, Maggie; last time half-killed me. I’m
simply a bureaucrat after all, not a ...’ His words trailed away,
Claire listened, fascinated, wanting to know what he could possibly
call this woman who seemed incapable of normal behaviour. Instead he
smiled and gestured towards the camels.
Maggie turned back to Claire. ‘You bottling out as well?’
Claire shook her head.
‘Good. Then you’ll learn something. You’ll have to
take a day off bloody bird counting though – we leave an hour
after dawn. Tell Tiljad to bring you.’ She headed for her camel,
handing the box of food to one of the crew before she mounted it. The
Berbers followed, tipping back their heads to finish soft drinks and
spitting until the clay around the camels was dark and wet.
‘Jesus,’ Claire breathed, amazed at their arrogance.
Hein folded closed the lid of his box and dropped it into the fire where
it flamed green and stank like a chemical spill. ‘Like Lawrence
of Arabia,’ he said. ‘She gets results – the Berbers
respect her, but yes, Jesus, she is hard to bear.’
Claire watched the dark sockets of his eyes, moving like weed in the
firelight. It must be painful to be out-toughed by a woman, especially
in the desert. A lesson to be learnt here. Men were fragile, and in
harsh environments it would be a good idea to give them scope to feel
good about themselves. She tucked the thought away, smiled at Hein.
‘So what can I expect on Thursday?’
‘Oh, she knows everything about ungulates. If you want to understand
anything with hooves, she’s the expert. Expect to be impressed.’
His face flickered. ‘And in pain,’ he added.
Claire nodded, turning back to observe the film crew. She intended to
ensure that pain was not an issue. Maggie wouldn’t find her easy
to impress either.
The next morning, in the false dawn, she walked down to the hide, a
thermos of water at her side, rifle over her shoulder, flat bread in
her free hand. Once she was settled in the hide there would be half
an hour of dark, during which she chewed the bread and swallowed water,
waking slowly, as though she’d walked in her sleep. The birds
came in two big waves; dawn and dusk, to sip and scratch at the rocky
trough of a spring that rose in the desert some thirty miles from Ouarzazate.
The water was undrinkable – she’d dipped her fingers in
it to see what it was like, and it smelt of salt and dank skin, like
a frog. It was ripe with mineral salts, but the birds still sought it
out.
As the light arrived she counted them in, using the blue clicker for
non-predators and the red clicker for hawks and wondered how difficult
it would be to shoot birds on the wing. Not that she wanted to; she
hadn’t aimed at a living target since that first symbolic shoot
with Eleanor, but as a theoretical exercise she’d developed a
fascination with the movement of the birds, their different styles of
flight. She saw deeper into them as a potential hunter than she ever
had as an observer, she realised.
At around eight she went back to the hut, sleeping through the heat
of the day and waking at two and returning to the hide, spending the
afternoon and early evening watching the creatures around the waterhole
until the small birds came back - or maybe a different group swept through,
she couldn’t tell as none were ringed - to paddle in the seep
of moisture as the sun crept away.
The predatory birds arrived more variously. A pair of Montagu’s
Harriers came over around half an hour after dawn, while Buzzards swept
over throughout the day, and she had twice seen a Pharoah’s Eagle
Owl - a juvenile bird she was pretty sure - squatting in the rock cover
at dusk. The warblers and larks spotted it too, and both times it left
hungry. She saw the Harriers preying on small rodents in the broken
rocks and once a buzzard took a Little Swift right off the water margin
in front of her eyes. One moment there had been a black and white form,
neat and compact against the beige stones and then a blur, like a handful
of cinnamon thrown down - and the thump. She heard the noise, a fist-sized
sound, but her mind told her that she heard it after the hawk had lifted
away, the black and white corpse twisted in its grip. The illusion persisted
no matter how often the reviewed the moment. The sound had lagged after
the death, happening once the strike was over and both birds were back
in the air – one dead, the other triumphant.
She found that smells were different in the desert. The action of heat
on stone changed their nature and their action; there was no vegetation
to capture them, so every odour was a column reaching into the air,
heated to stretch rather than spread, and because evaporation was almost
instantaneous there were none of the normal smells of humanity. Fires
burnt up into the sky carrying nothing but shimmering power. Sweat fled
the body and left nothing but its mineral smell because bacteria were
annihilated by the arid heat. At night the desert threw back heat to
the sky and while the stars blazed so close Claire sometimes felt they
would crash into each other, any trace of odour was jettisoned with
the day’s warmth, so that the desert was as crisp and scentless
as a frost.
Water could be smelt, when you were almost on top of it. The scent of
it stood in the air like an invisible wall – when a camel hit
the smell of water it turned as though it had mashed its nose on brick
and walked along the odour until the source was found. She learnt this
from Maggie.